Friday, June 29, 2012

A jaunty ride through the French countryside

I'd like to paint a picture of Kevin and I on a bicycle built for two. He pedaling while I, in my jaunty skirt, hold a parasol over his head to shade him from a gentle setting sun. The vines of the burgundy region surround us and Darby is cheerfully pedaling ahead. I'd like to paint that picture, however...I can't.

Our fun ride into the vineyards of the bourgogne (burgundy) was absolutely amazing. Unforgettable. Breathtaking. Hotter than hell. Exhausting. About 30 kms too long. About 4 tastings too short.

Things started off swimmingly. Our bike rental dude suggested we ride all the way to the end of the "tour de grand cru de vins" about a two and a half hour ride. Then a bite of lunch at a suggested restaurant then a turn around to begin sampling the wines at several degustation de vin along the way. We gave him two thumbs up and off we went.

It started well and then the heat and the "gentle rising slopes" turned into what I think was a combo tour de France/ Bataan death march. But, we kept pedaling, as we had a delicious lunch and wine tastings to look forward to.

Darbs at the top of one of the gentle slopes, taking a water break.

Beautiful sights along the way.

The village of Volnay.

The village pictured above was the lovely place where we were to stop for lunch. Tired, hungry, hot, and very sweaty we pedaled up only to find the place closed. Doh! And, would you believe it...no other restaurants in the town!

The photo above is of the MANY vintners/caves available in the next town that we pedaled about 5kms to, looking for lunch. We found a lovely place on the square with a delicious smell coming from the door. There were at least three tables available outside. Success!

NON! The hostess told us in most emphatic frenglish, "not possible!" We toured the rest of the town and not even a boulangerie was to be found. (we think the residents only drink)

Finally, after a candy bar/water/ ice cream raid at the local tabac we decided to turn around and grab lunch at one of the charming towns we had already ridden through and then begin tasting. (At this point I had certainly not imagined being on this wine tour for about four hours without a single glass of wine!)

We finally found a place to eat without much atmosphere, but a cheerful waitress, cold water and good food. Refreshed and fed, it was time to start sampling!

Ahhh, delicious. Fruity. Cold. Chardonnay.

Vineyard #2.

Darby chilled and took about two hundred photos in the time it took us to taste four wines and purchase two bottles.

Tired and hot after our 7 hour odyssey, we dropped those bike off and headed for the showers back at the hotel.

Please don't think our day was wasted. We had a lovely dinner of beouf bourginon and were served the local moutarde de Dijon. It was so amazing tasting I wanted to buy a vat. Settled for a jar. Yum.

Next up- Paris!

Wednesday, June 27, 2012

Man, this place is old...

We left Chamonix yesterday on a beautiful cloudless morning. The view of Mont Blanc was spectacular.

Next, we hopped on the amazing train system to St. Gervais to Belgrade to Lyon and finally to Beaune. All of our connections had about 9 minutes to switch platforms and they went without a hitch. This French rail system runs like a Swiss made watch. Nice.

When we arrived in Beaune it was blazing hot. And, this place is OLD!

There is a ring road which circles the town and follows the perimeter of the old fortress walls. The inner town is filled with charming shops, restaurants and lots of wine shops. This region (Burgundy) is known for its many vineyards and lots of cows. Beoef Bourgignon is on every menu along with escargot. Yum. Also, Dijon is the next town over, so there this is a mustard lovers dream. Kev and Darby not so thrilled...

Our hotel has been in existence since they started building hotels. Wow. That is it on the right. We are on a charming square with an amazing view of the cathedral of Notre Dame. After dinner last night we were walking back to our hotel and saw the French version of a light show. They were casting images on the ceturies old church. Kicks the Michigan Avenue Festival of Lights ass.

Notre Dame cathedral.

Beginning of the light show, with our lil photog trying to snap a good one.

Anything for a shot.

One of the big highlights of the the town, besides the vineyards is the Hôtel Dieu. It is a medieval charity hospital built in 1443. It took only eight years to construct and had patients in it until 1971. It was spectacular. The roof tiles were in the Burgundian style. They were so forward thinking in their construction of the place that the builder insisted on building OVER the river for sanitation purposes. The tour was cool, if a bit long winded. Darby loved it.

The tiles of the hospital.

The beds where the poorest patients were helped. They were very fancy and high tech for the times and were completely free.

Jars holding medicine in the pharmacy.

We also had to catch a bit of the Spain/Portugal game. Luckily, there is an English pub right around the corner. Kev thought the place would be packed...but we were the only ones in therefor quite some time. The bartender said that once france lost, no one watches. A few Australian blokes wandered in. They were on a sixth month trip culminating in one of their sons' wedding in switzerland. And I thought we were going to be gone a long time!

There was also an adorable French boy who kept wandering in to check the score. He was about 10 and he was hilarious. He gave critiques and his thoughts on all the matches do far. It was kinda like listening to a little Howard Cosell.

Darby and Kevin watching the match.

Today we are off on an all-day bike tour of the region and the vineyards. Pray for my legs...they are still recovering from our little hike in the alps.

Tuesday, June 26, 2012

Climb every mountain...

Today we did what 2/3's of the people in Chamonix didn't do...we hiked from the midway point of Mont Blanc down to the quarter point. We dropped 1500 feet in about three and a half hours. Granted, a third of the people sat on their butts in the charming pubs and brasseries in town drinking and eating. The other third climbed the ENTIRE mountain in Into Thin Air conditions. So I guess we deserve a cold beer! We got up and took the gondola to the mid way point and then hopped another to the top. Wow!

The temp was 32ish and windy. It was also very cloudy. Not perfect, but amazing nonetheless. As we stood in an ice tunnel waiting to view the mountain climbers were strapping on crampons, getting their ropes ready and dropping over the sides. Freaky!

The dark spots in the above photo are people! Yikes.

Darby taking photos of the climbers.

As you can tell, we were very prepared for the weather. Two pair of running shoes, jeans, three wind breakers, a pair of keens, and shorts. Brr. That is what is supposed to be Italy behind us.

Ice tunnel.

A guy fixing the rock fence. Couldn't pay me enough!

The start of the hike.

Made it to the glacier!

Reward for finishing!!!